BEST FIG FOOD W/ Micronutrients Less .00 Per Week & Get Expert Growing Results

Description

Figs n Such : This offer is for a discounted trial Kit.  This consists of 3 (three) Root Grow Tea + 3 (three) Fig Fertilizer for 3 months of vigorous fig plant root and fruit growth. You dont have to worry about plant growth and root development.
Application.  First set your fig tree/plant in it's first or subsequent pot after starting.  Use 1 (one) of the Six (6) plant fertilizer vials and spread the powder around the surface of the dirt or substrate the plant / tree is growing in. Use one fertilizer pak every two weeks., and then alternate one vial of our Root Enhancing grow Tea. After application, water normally as needed. Remember to apply one of vials of each every two weeks. i.e. Week one Fertilizer, week 2 none, week 3 pour one vial of root enhancer with micronutrients, week 4 none, repeat until product is gone.
The fertilizer solution works to get your figs up and running.  Then the next time apply the Rooting Tea so your plant develops exceptional growth and root development. The end result being a much larger / sweeter Fig Crop. This product works to stimulate early robust root formation and stronger root development. It further reduces transplant shock and promotes greener, more vigorous plants.
Growing figs
Figs
tree
are
often called the tree
of
life.
Your rooted plant
will become a noble 30-foot retreat from the sun, its shade
abundant. Yet, it is this sunlight and heat which we avoid, hiding in a cooling
shade of a tree that will reward you with figs that develop in an unusual way.
Unlike other fruit trees, the fig develops from flowers that grow internally,
so you don’t actually see them. These flowers grow inside the fleshy pods of thefruits. However, the fruit is really a receptacle for the many inverted bloomsthat have matured inside-out.
It’s tempting to assume, with such anunusual tree, that there may be special growing techniques required? Figs havea reputation for being difficult to cultivate, but all figs need is warmth and
sunlight, and plenty of it. Native to places like the Mediterranean, Asia and
California, these crops are dedicated sun-worshippers, and they're a perfect
choice if you're looking to add some novel, unique to your garden.  The main trick to remember is to feed the
fig’s need for sunshine.  Figs prefer
things hot: 'In its native climes, its closeness to the equator allows it to
yield almost continually, producing several harvests a year. Hi Still, you only
need one tree for a handsome feast; pollination is not necessary, as figs are
self-fertile.
Surprisingly, figs
require root restriction under foot to reach their full potential. Examples of
30ft specimens with stunning architectural growth and massive lobed foliage are
not unusual, even in s
mall gardens.  All you
have to do is fool the plant into thinking it is growing on a rocky hillside in
the Mediterranean.
Just make sure trees have adequate
winter protection, and these hardy trees will grow happily in confined places
and a variety of soils. Fig trees are charmingly low-maintenance and respond
well to the occasional periods of neglect.
TO cultivate FIGS
How to grow figs,
you have another decision to make. Are you going buy your figs as trees for
plantings, or as rooting cutting? These options allow you to grow homegrown
healthy figs – as long as you are savvy to the best growing times and how to
increase your rate of success.
There are two optimum times for
planting a fig tree: in fall/autumn (September-November) so it has time to
establish, or in March-April before things start warming up. Just make sure the
ground isn’t waterlogged or frozen, or that there is no risk of frost; pick a
mild day for planting, and choose a sheltered spot that will benefit from the
most sunshine. Plant near a wall or
garden fence
for added protection against drafts and chills. You
should also plant as soon as you can after buying your fig tree.
POT
o’ FIG
I cannot stress enough, though, how
important it is to pick a pot that is just slightly bigger. At every stage
of potting on your fig remember about root restriction. This is just as
important at the early stages of plant growth when the roots are very
young. A  well developed root system is the key to maintaining any plant for the production of fruit.
So, choose something that is just a few inches wider in
diameter. Fill up the new container with fresh, self-draining compost that is
slightly moist, or coir, gravel etc. Make sure your cuttings are upright and
secure. It may be necessary to pot on a few times before planting, depending on
the rate of growth and I other conditions.
It is not unusual
to keep figs in pots for several months before planting. During this time,
monitor the young figs daily and make sure they are kept watered. Where the
weather permits, you can try putting the pots outside – but make sure they are
not exposed to harsh drafts or frosts.
Want to know more about the kinds of
fruit trees you can grow in pots? Read our guide to the
best fruit trees to grow in pots
to find out which varieties are
ideally suited to container growing.
FIGS IN THE GROUND
Once your fig
plants are a few months old, you can transplant them outside. Late winter or
early spring (March/April) is a good time to do this, assuming you made winter
cuttings – if you made summer cuttings, wait until November. Ideally, it’s a
good idea to choose a day that is overcast, but not cold.
Hopefully your planting site will be in a sunny spot and
sheltered to protect the young plant as it is getting established. I recommend
a south facing wall for first-time fig growers. This will provide the optimum
growing conditions for young plants and maximize sugar levels in ripe fruits.
Walls are also great for training your figs. Make sure the soil is moisture
retentive and free draining before planting.
Don't forget about the importance of restricting root growth –
and start as you mean to go on. That way, the fig will ultimately put more
energy into fruiting instead of cultivating foliage. To help with this, plant
your young figs outside into ‘pits’ which deliberately restrict growth (you can
also house the plants in root control bags or 2ft/60cm-wide pots before
plunging them in the ground).
Dig out a hole 2ft (60cm) deep and wide in your planting site.
If planting near a wall, allow an 18in (45cm) gap for rain to fall. Line the
sides of the planting hole with vertical paving slabs. Let these slabs stick
1-2in (2.5cm-5cm) above the soil surface. Line the base with broken bricks or
rubble. This will help with drainage while discouraging roots from running
rampant.
Fill the hole with soil mixed with compost or I well -rotted
organic matter. Soak the plant in water. Add mycorrhizal fungi to the roots to
help the plant establish. Plant the tree, then firm the soil and water
thoroughly. Make sure the paving slabs stay a little above soil level. If
planting more than one fig, give each young tree 25ft (7m) space. Trained figs
need a series of horizontal wires spaced a foot (30cm) apart to support young
branches.
To make sure your figs are happy, keep checking your soil is
moisture retentive and free draining.
FIGS IN CONTAINERS
If you're a fan
of  producing fruit in a potted garden
, you can keep your small fig trees
in large containers on a sunny patio. As I well as ensuring root growth is
restricted – which is key to fig cropping success – growing your plants as part
of your container garden and you can easily move them undercover for the winter
months. As per previous steps, remember to select a container that is only ever
incrementally one size larger than the previous one (i.e. a couple of
inches/5cm wider in diameter than the last).
Container-grown plants can be planted at any time, but spring
(late March-April) is best to make the most of the growing season. Use a
good-quality No3 compost or multi-purpose soil, mixed with one third grit or
perlite. Also make sure the pot has drainage holes at the base.
Place crocks over these holes to help
with drainage. Fill around the plant with compost and make sure the plant is well  anchored, then remember to keep
soil damp. If
planting in spring, add general-purpose or high-potassium fertilizer pellets or
liquid feed.  Keep watering regularly
during this first season of growth. Re-pot no more than once every two
years.
to plant GROWing
FIGS
A key part of mastering how to grow figs is to remember the
importance of replicating its native Mediterranean conditions where you can.
You will increase the chances of prolific and healthy fruiting if you pick a
sheltered spot against a sun-drenched wall or fence (or under glass in a
greenhouse, if that is more reliable). The more sunshine your fruits get, the sweeter
they will be.
It has been said that a fig tree likes its feet in water and its
head in the sun, as the soil must stay cool for it to flourish. This doesn’t
mean figs like waterlogged soil, however. Grow in moisture-retentive yet well-draining
soil. This can be any pH, depending on variety, although figs seem to do their
best in slightly alkaline conditions. Alternatively, grow in a large, deep
container – again, against a house wall or protected patio spot. This can be
moved to a frost-free greenhouse in winter.
Consider trying companion planting
to help boost your fig crops
too. Strawberries are good for ground cover and enjoy the dappled shade
afforded by figs. Comfrey, marigolds and mint can also be beneficial for
releasing essential nutrients.
TO CARE FOR FIGS
The main thing to remember as you learn how to grow figs is that
they require different care at different ages. With very young trees, you must
make sure the soil is kept moist. Watering is particularly critical through the
growing season – and it needs to be regular to prevent fruit splitting or
dropping. Hydration is key to keeping your figs happy and healthy.
A balanced feed (i.e. fish, blood and
bone) or high-potash top dressing is beneficial in spring, as is mulching
with well-rotted compost, composted bark or manure. This
layer of mulch in spring helps to keep the ground cool and moist as the
temperature rises. It’s best not to apply high nitrogen feeds, which promote
leaf growth rather than flower and bud development.
You should find that older trees are far more drought tolerant
and need less attention. That said, any container-grown plants should not be
allowed to dry out. They need a drink daily on warm, sunny days, plus regular
feeding in early summer.
When figs start to develop on healthy established trees, you can
boost productivity and growth by applying a potassium-based liquid tomato feed
every two I weeks. As fruits swell, keep well-watered in summer. In autumn,
remove any figs that are large but unripe – but leave any small pea-shaped figs
in place for the following year.
Learn to protect your fig prior to it's hibernation. If the roots freeze, generally the plant dies.  Figs are no different.
is important,
especially for younger trees. When the leaves drop, cover with horticultural
fleece. Alternatively, figs standing against a fence or wall can be insulated
with straw held in place with netting.  This will ensure that very young fruits
survive the brunt of winter (remove at the end of spring).
Container-grown figs can be moved
under glass for winter. Choose a cool but frost-free spot like an
unheated greenhouse
. It’s also smart to cover the pot with bubble wrap or
hessian. Remember to repot every two years (or replace with fresh compost). And
don’t forget: root restriction reaps dividends – so don’t make the next pot too
much bigger.
TO PRUNE YOUR FIG
When learning how to grow figs, one job that determines health
and productivity is pruning. Trimming at critical stages not only helps you to
sculpt tree shape and manage tree size – it also gives you the edge in terms of
fig numbers. Figs develop on new growth, and growth that is a year old.
Careful, clever pruning speeds this growth and means you encourage new fruits
at the right times – boosting the vitality and volume of the following
harvest.
Figs are vigorous, so bear in mind that this is a job you will
need to do twice a year, every year. There are two main times to prune your
figs: at the end of winter, and during midsummer. As L, 'Winter pruning
consists of shaping the tree, and easing congestion. Summer pruning helps the
sun reach your developing fruits and encourages fruitlet formation. You need to
cut back the current year’s growth by a third to stimulate overwintering
fruitlets.'
Your late winter pruning (around February) should aim to remove
unwanted growth; dead, damaged or I weak stems; anything that spoils its shape;
or any suckers. What you are looking to create with your cuts is a healthy,
compact ‘mop head’ shape in a standard fig. This is important as it lets the
light reach all parts of the fig canopy. It’s ok to cut long or bare branches
back to stubs to stimulate new growth from the base.
Summer pruning (June/July) is your chance to control the
developing shape, but also to encourage the fruitlets for next year’s harvest. Only
fruitlets initiated in autumn have time to flower and ripen the following
summer. Pinch or cut the
tips of any shoots
with more than five or six leaves. Focus on young growth, and leave mature
shoots alone. Cut using sharp secateurs. This stimulates side-shoots that go on
to develop fruitlets in September and October. These fruits will have a head
start in spring, and will go on to create your next fig feast.
Follow these key tips so your tree is in the best shape and
crops to its full potential:
1.
If the fig is in growth, cut stems will ooze a milky sap, but
this should stop quickly and shouldn’t harm the plant (cutting in winter, it
shouldn’t bleed at all). The sap (latex) is an irritant, though, so wear
protective gardening gloves
and cover your arms. Start
pruning from the bottom of the plant and work upwards. If you do get any sap on
your skin, wash it off.
2.
When
winter-pruning, give the fig an open shape and control its size. Cut the oldest
stems down to the base. Prune out any stems that disrupt the overall framework.
You may need to cut thick stems 1in (2.5cm) or more in diameter with a pruning
saw. Cut shoots a few buds above the ground, so it can branch off – you can use
these cuttings for more plants.
3.
For fan-trained
figs, pinch out the growing tip of alternating young shoots as part of your
summer pruning. This encourages bushier growth loI r down. As the new shoots
develop, tie the stems to horizontal wires. In late winter, cut out dead stems
to keep the tree open. The aim is to create space and light for ample fruit
formation.
4.
To manage potted
figs, cut out dead stems and I ak branches in late winter before growth starts.
You should also prune the shoot tips from new growth in summer, leaving four to
five leaves.
~ IMPORTANT:  Don’t take chances when it comes to pruning. One careless snip
can set your plant back months – or may even stop it in its tracks for
good!